Suzuki/Beamish

Hi all, I have just come across an ex John Reynolds works beamish, apparently it was sold to a family friend by John after completing the scottish on it, the bike has been untouched and tucked away safely since then, could anyone with any info or pics of john riding a beamish in the scottish 6 day, or what year he rode one there please help, i will post some pics of the bike as soon as i can. thanks: Scrumpy

Hi all. New to this site and a bit of a techno dummy so lets hope I can use the site okay. So I have an issue with my Suzuki Beamish RL. I have been advised the Beamish was made in two models. The RL250 and the RL325. Problem being my Suzuki Beamish has a period decal either side that looks original, that states it's an RL350. So, does anyone know if the beamish was made as a 350 please.

Hi, could anyone tell me a good set up for sidecar trials? How much difference between solo and outfit sprocket sizes? Cheers

After looking around for a few weeks and seen the twin shock bikes needing restoration generally go for too much money I've decided to buy a pretty immaculate 250 Beamish. I "DO" intend to use rather than look at it. Is there an "authority" on these that anyone knows of that could check out some minor details for me that I "think" are non standard? I know the tail pipe is non standard but "sensible". But the rest of it I think is pretty pukka. I think its mainly decals that are a bit "iffy" (I think I have a source for these) and I thought it should have fork gaiters. A couple of small areas on the swingarm are getting thin on the chrome and showing the underlying N…

Hey people, Im having trouble getting my beamish suzuki 1981 bike working. i don't really know what is wrong with it, i have tried the cdi unit for the spark, i have put fresh petrol in and i have checked everything else that i thought might be the problem, and it still will not start. There is one thing i was not sure about, that is the clutch plate. When i took the casing off, oil came out and at the time i thought this was the problem and oil is not meant to be in there. so i blocked it up where i believe he oil was coming throught, and now it still does not work. i know some bikes clutch plates are dry and some are not, so i was wondering is the beamish suzuki 1981…

Hi, I have just acquired a 1968 Bearcat which is the ideal starting point to build a Gaunt replica! Being the latest model of the Bearcat it has the B100 frame with the TC120 dual range motor it’s perfect for the job! But I have a number of questions... Forks, These should be from the Invader 200 are they still 30mm? And looking at photos they must be a bit longer if so how much? If I can’t find any Invader forks I’ll find something suitable that looks right While we are at the front did Peter alter the head angle? Hubs These look to be smaller than the B100 or Bearcat hubs, possibly A100 or A50? Swinging Arm I know it’s about an inch longer but …

Im Rebuilding a black engine Beamish Suzuki and i was trying to work out the best way to clean up the fork legs, has any one got any tips please on the best way to clean them so the look a bit better ?

IM CURRENTLY REFRESHING THE ENGINE ON A MATES 325 BEAMISH. IVE SPOKEN WITH THE VERY HELPFUL STEVE PITT AT THE BEAMISH OWNERS CLUB ABOUT SOURCING AN 81.00mm PISTON. I KNOW THERE ARENT ANY AT THE MOMENT, BUT THE OLD ADAGE SAYS IF YOU DONT ASK…………!! HAS ANYONE GOT AN 81.00mm PISTON SAT IN A WORKSHOP DRAWER THEY BOUGHT YEARS AGO , JUST IN CASE AND NO LONGER NEED, OR AS AN ALTERNATIVE I COULD MAKE A SET OF 80.50mm PISTON RINGS WORK ON THE EXISTING PISTON SHORT TERM. IM ALSO A BIT CONFUSED AT THE OPTION OF THREE DIFFERENT BASE GASKETS THICKNESSES AVAILABLE FOR THAT MODEL. HOW DO I DETERMINE WHAT THICKNESS I NEED. THE ENGINE IM WORKING ON HAS THE 250 HEAD ON IT WITH THE AP…

Just tried fitting a set of beamish forks I have lying around on my BSA, but the fork tubes seem to be smaller than 35mm this is stopping me clamping them on the bsa. I’ve measured them and they are 34.87mm which seems to be closer to 1 3/8” did the beamish have odd sized forks?

I have just rebuilt my engine (reed valve type), and am having trouble with gear selection. I can get the first four gears but it doesn't want to go into fifth, does anyone have any tips on where I might have gone wrong. I thought that I had put it together according to the diagram in the manual but perhaps not. Any ideas would be appreciated thanks.

250 Beamish needs re boring, do I stay at 250 or remove the insert liner and go back to the original manufactured size of 325. If so what else is needed to be done. What difference will be felt if I switch to the 325? Anybody got any other tips to make a Beamish as competitive as possible?

Hi, I recently bought a 1975 Suzuki RL250. It ran but not well. I found that the main jet was plugged. After carefully cleaning it out and blowing it dry with compressed air, I reassembled the carb, gassed it up and it started easily. It runs for a while but looses power in a couple minutes and then stalls. it will not restart until it cools down. Any suggestions as to how to adjust the carb? It has a 130 main jet. I'm running modern synthetic oil at 40:1.

Hi all, I need some help please with assembling the forks on my Beamish. It's been quite some time since I took them apart so my memory for the position of the parts is faint, The drawing of the forks on the Beamish owners club differs from mine so i'm uncertain as to the position of all the parts. I'm hoping someone on this forum has pictures of the correct assembly for the parts in the picture I have attached. my main concern is for the position of the small springs on the damper rod. Thanks in advance. Phil.

In earlier topics some mentioned relining brake shoes, that worked. Can enybody tell me what the new lining material was? Cheers Miked

I have a 1980 black engine Beamish, the fork springs are getting a bit tired and I am thinking about replacing them. I was wondering if full length springs would be ok to use without the spacer at the top or do I need to try and get some the correct length and continue to use the spacer. Any advice would be most welcome, thanks

Anybody have any advise. The Beamish Club manual section says there is a mistake on Parts List 5, circlip 36 should go between 38 and 39. But part 36 looks like it is a spring clip that fits in a location in the shaft to stop 35 gear from moving side ways on the shaft. The gearbox that I have has part 38 between 35 and 36, anybody know which is right? Any advise welcome. Mike

Is it me, or is there lots of Beamishs turning up just lately?

I purchased a new mag side crank bearing (09283-30006) and it has a metal lip that the old one did not. Does this lip face the crank itself as it appears a bit too wide to face the case, or was I supplied the wrong one? Thanks in advance

can any one help me i need to know the centers of the yokes for a beamish i have a front end i wish to put on my new frame i have built i will make the yokes myself on the cnc machine in work so if any one could help i would be most greatful i need centers for forks and steem thanks

Hi everyone, happy new year! I have just taken the cylinder head off my 325 and it has a bit of side scoring to the piston, the bore looks ok. Would it be better to just put new rings on it or rebore it? If it had had a rebore previous would there be any markings on the piston? as there is nothing showing? Inside the piston it just says "S made in japan" and "ART" and what looks like a Y with a line over it (I thought this was a + at first) under that there is a number 1. The engine ran well with a bit of smoke before I took it apart. If it needs a rebore what pistons are avaiable. Thanks