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As the the cumberland 2 day is based round a caravan park, there is ample camping on site, and there may even be a trials quiz in the pub on saturday night!
Woody, you'll need to ditch the IRC tyres if you want less punctures, there will be more than a few rocks at cumberland for you.
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You must mean the Cumberland County m/c club 2-Day British bike & twinshock trial held on the 6th/7th of September.
Based near the shores of Ullswater by the villages of Patterdale/Glenridding.
The trial is definately on this year, regs will be out very soon. See you there for another belter!
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Certainly i don't there are any grounds for complaint over section severity, i rode the hard(er) route and although i had been confined to my sick-bed for a couple of days beforehand i still easily completed the course without too much huffing & puffing, the nature of road trials means you get a lot of rest between sections.
To me, the trial seemed spot on and i'll be back next year for another crack, this one deserves a much bigger entry.
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The first white framed models appeared in 1988, so if yours is a red framed model, it could be from between '84 - '87.
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Someone will take it on, there's no doubt about that.
Just you watch.
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This sounds like an interesting project, any pics?
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Video yourself riding a section you find difficult, (or get a mate to do it)
Then later when you watch it back, it 's really easy to spot whats going wrong, sometimes embarrasingly obvious!
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Lots of wheel cleaners do stain BARE alloys, but as mentioned above, virtually all alloy wheels on cars are painted.
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Martin is correct, very common for clutches to do this, not just rotax ones!
Just ride it until it frees off.
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Bosis was the man back then, i had to have an Aprilia after watching him.
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Regs now out for the Westmorland motor club Sammy Miller round.
Trial is on the 6th of July at Cartmel near Kendal, details on the website:
http://www.westmorlandmotorclub.co.uk/
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There was some Hiro pistons on ebay italy a few weeks ago definately.
Try there first.
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I had one, certainly no need to remove the airbox.
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Ok, so you have drained the gearbox/clutch oil Yes?
Now refill the gearbox with the correct amount (according to your manual) of light gear oil,using the cap which you identified earlier.
If you haven't drained the gearbox, you shouldn't need to top it up, however it is good practice to drain & change the gearbox oil every 10 or so rides, as the clutch shares this oil and gives it a good mashing.
This is not engine oil, it is gearbox oil.
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NOOOOOOO
Stop, that is the gearbox oil filler cap, do not put 2 stroke oil in there!
These bikes are 2 strokes so the engine oil is mixed with the fuel, not in the gearbox.
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Depends on whether you have a safety cage installed or not.
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Would that be the cotswold that has been "discussed" at length on here recently?
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Dave rowlandson, at sapphire m/c's at Staveley. Second to none workshop!, loves older bikes.
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Originally, these were advised to run at 50:1 semi-synthetic.
I run these engines at 55:1 fully synthetic without any problems.
A handy chart with measure can be found here:
http://www.sidecartrials.com/two-stroke.htm
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Looks like it's gonna be a good day out, pity i can't re-assemble the hundreds of parts which my bike is in at the moment in time.
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Stop whining , i remember when they were
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You can retard the valve timing, but you lose top end power.
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Bo, i know what you mean about the throttle, if the 200 is anything like the 250 even with the slow action throttle the revs seem to shoot up if the throttle is opened up even a tiny amount.
There's not a great deal you can do about it to be honest, thats how they are.
Riding in a lower gear using higher revs is a technique used by many TLR riders to get the engine operating in the smoother mid-range, just be glad you don't have the 250!
You'll get used to it in no time.
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