reggie

Motoplat UK can fix your old stator.

I think you can achieve the non rubbing by using the Evo 4t kickstart.

The clutch only has one spring.

From Betamotor.com website 2008 Rev 4t vehicle spare parts book. The rebuild kit p/n is 20 02714 000

Beta p/n 2781082 000 this is for the Rev 4t m/y 2007 Beta p/n 2781083 000 will also work

I think that you have taken out the wrong bolt, the drain bolt is 6mm x 45mm long not 8mm.

I think you will find the cap from the latest Evo will work. You may need to mod some spacers.

billy I see you did not put the score zero in your post. There are some riders that do get the odd zero or clean score. It used to be in the FIM world events that the possible scores were 0,1, 3, and 5 , maybe the powers that be are not fond of even numbers.

copemech is on the right track. Since you have already changed out the thermo switch, bench test the one that you have removed with boiling water and an ohm meter. If the switch is operating correctly that is not your problem. Is the engine hot and the radiator is not hot the coolant is not being circulated, time to check the water pump. If all the above things are correct the problem is likely to be an electrical connection, sometimes the source of these connection problems on the Evo 4t are at the regulator/rectifier which is mounted on top of the motor directly bellow the carb. Good luck, and please let us know what your troubles were.

Yes the flywheel rotor is a different part number. You can look at the parts book at the Betamotor website.

I believe you could buy p/n 007100620 000 rotor for the GB model. I am pretty sure the only difference is the weight.

I think you may have a problem with the fan module. Connect 12 volts dc directly to the fan then you will know if it is a fan problem or something else.

Just a silly thought, you have loosened the top triple clamp fork pinch bolts? If not this may be your problem.

Check out this same topic in the twinshock forum.

SKF KIT38P these are an upgrade and not too dear if you were planning on changing the wipers as well as the seals.

Chub, I would warm the fork with a heat gun and then pull apart. Next step is to clean the threads very well. I would put some teflon pipe thread sealant on the threads (only a small amount needed) and rtv silicone sealant on the non-threaded fit when doing the re-assembly. The pipe thread sealant will allow some lubrication on the threads so you can achieve full thread engagement and the rtv will keep dirt out and hold it all together.

I have found the best solution to get an allen bolt with the internal hex has been wrecked is as follows.Take a short length of stranded copper wire AWG 16 or so strip back 3 cm, spread the strands of wire across the internal hex then take your allen wrench and hammer gently into the hex this will tighten things up so you should be able to undo the fastener.

You did not mention which carb is on your bike. If it is a dell'orto you may have put the floats in upside down.Don't worry you are not the first.

I think this may be the drive pin from the water pump gear. Pull the major clutch cover off to have a look.Be sure to pay attention to the shims on both the gear shift and kick start shafts.

Thread pitch 1.0

6 x 25 flat head allen bolt thread pitch Beta p/n 3137000 000 GasGas p/n T0406025

There are only two things that should be used to clean the hydraulic parts of a braking system one is brake fluid and the other is a combination of soap and water. If you go the soap and water direction you will need to make sure all pieces are water free before re-assembly.There are special types of lubricant that may help with re-assembly.Brake/contact cleaner should never be used on any hydraulic parts of the brake system, they are good for cleaning pads, shoes, discs, and drums.

I am wondering if you may have two separate issues. The noise may stem from changing the main clutch cover gasket, it is possible that have let a shim fall into the clutch cover side of the motor. The shim in question may have come off of the kickstart shaft or the gear shift shaft, what sometimes happens sometimes is that the shim gets sucked up into the main drive gear between the clutch basket and the main gear on the crankshaft. You may also have a cooling problem.

Dan I believe that the nipple that you are talking about is the port that the carb uses for sensing the atmospheric pressure.The cap that comes stock on the carb is not 100% sealed, if you want to change this put on a length of hose with a filter on the end of it.There are websites with a lot of info on tuning the cv carb, maybe you can check them out.

the carb needle has a delrin spacer under the needle clip, if this spacer is on the other side of the clip it will be very lean.It would probably run good just off of idle then really stumble and if you did manage to hang on long enough it would come on very strong.Good luck.