Suzuki/Beamish

Anybody know where I would get replacement split bushes that wrap round the bottom of the chrome fork slider​? RL250/325 air assisted forks. Nothing in manual about them so no part number. Thanks.

As this is the next running maintainence job I need to do (to sort a slow oil leak) I am wondering if anyone who had done one before can shed light on the following: 1) I understand that it must be done with the selector shaft removed as you can not prise it out and replace the new one over the selector shaft 2) In order to withdrawal the selector shaft, I believe the clutch basket needs to come off? Is this splined or tapered and is it easy to get off, or like the montesa, a real pig that needs a heavy duty puller? 3) When reassembling is their any line up marks that need to be paid attention to to ensure all gears select OK thanks Rob

Hi all Does anyone on here have my first bike. 1979 Beamish Suzuki RL250 Reg No. DKY 335V. It would be nice to know what happened to it. Thank you Chris

Your opinion about Suzuki RL250 or Suzuki Beamish?

I have a suzuki front end that I am going to put on my Majesty Yam, I was told that it was a beamish front end but I think it is probably an earlier RL front end as there are no air valves on forks, can anyone confirm this and also, how are they rated as standard and does anyone have any tips or mods for setting forks up to work as well as possible. Thanks

I’ve recently picked up another project, a 1975 Suzuki RL250 Exacta, which seems to run well, but is in need of some cosmetic work, and some routine maintenance done, such as brake cables and chain/sprockets replaced. The intention is to give it to my Father once it’s sorted, so we can ride together, but want to make sure it’s sound before he gets on. One question that seems to be eluding me is an aftermarket sprocket. I’ve seen the Talon kits available on eBay, and it seems that RL250.com and Beamish Owners Club offers kits as well, but was wondering what other Suzuki models share the same rear sprocket bolt pattern, as well as alternatives for the front sprocket? …

I have been working on 250 (yellow) Beamish and just finished rebuilding after a re-bore. The bike has a new Mikuni carb on it but with right hand mixture screw on it. The carb has the numbers 26 and 8074 stamped by the choke lever and WO 6 1 below the main body The carb is supposed to be set up for a 250 but I have had to put the needle clip on the bottom groove to get any sort of running out of the engine. Still feels very flat. Can anybody advise jetting for 250 reed valve engine.

Hi All, Can anyone please help me with information regarding the re-assembly of a Beamish Suzuki (black engine) gearbox? If someone has some good pictures of the re-assembly order of the components that are known to be correct that will be a great help. It’s been some years since I took it apart so I have no memory of any details regarding re-assembly. I had taken many pictures but I’m still not confident that the position of some components is correct. I have noticed the 4th gear thrust washer is in a different location to the drawing in the work shop manual, mine was directly behind the 4th gear drive circlip. Also I can’t tell the correct orientation o…

A mate is trying to sort out a Beamish 325 which when cold does not have a spark but when the cdi box has been left in the warm for a while has a decent spark and runs well. Take the cdi off put it outside until cold and no spark again.(he is a m/c mechanic so knows his onions) Has anyone here had a similar problem or a cure or a part number or idea of a replacement for the cdi box ??? Thanks in advance.

Can anyone with a black engine Beamish please tell me the size of the pilot jet they are running in both the 250 and the 325? The manual suggests that the 325 should have a pilot jet of 20 and the 250 a pilot jet of 27.5 - that doesn't make any sense to me if the larger number denotes a larger jet - would you have the smaller jet in the larger engine? I have a 250 and have just stripped the carb, the jet number is too faint to read. I also have a 325 that was originally a 250 and that has a 20 pilot jet and it is not running correstly. I would also like to know the needle clup position as counted down from the top of the needle. A concensus of what people are act…

I also have amongst my stuff,a good Suzuki beamish rl325. are they not used much in twinshock trials? Cant find much/any reference on this forum either.... Any views on them anyone? great,crap,whatever??? S.M.

Hi All,I have a silver engine beamish suzuki and want to re-spoke the wheels does anyboby know where i can get a set?? .thanks Paul

I've just acquired a solid rl250 and have begun disassembly for painting. Other than the flywheel weight that many suggest, are there any other mods that would improve the performance of this bike? I read somewhere that cutting the steering head and tucking in the front end 3-4 degrees would help the turning capabilities. Thoughts? Thank, Herman

when I’m riding the stand keeps coming down, think I’m catching it with my heel? Does anyone else have a problem?

I've been offered an old Suzuki rl 250 by a friend, it's been sitting in a barn for 17 years!!!!! yes it actually has been in a barn for that long!!! i don't want it as a serious competitive trialer just a bike that'll do it all if i want? It wants a resto really, but it runs fine it was started last week for the first time since it was parked up by the farmer.. i'm trying to find out what its worth? Its the old red and silver RL it still has all the lights and switches but the headlight looks like it seen a bit of action, the lamp is ok but the cover is all bent, he's even got the original log book off the farmer! 1 owner from new, just the farmer..! It is a bit of…

I’ve noticed my bike as hairline cracks across the headstock gusset plates I know this is common but what’s the best way to repair, or can it be left alone?

Just found these Oldies..! South Coast - Brighton and..? Photo credit @ Derek Jones John Reynolds Cheers Chaps, Motosinge83.

Have been really pleased with the Beamish since I got it 12 months ago but over the last few events it has starting giving me signs that things were not right, the main one being after the run between sections the tickover races but one it is left to cool down for 3 -4 mins its back to normal. I started to investigate today and noticed the following, any thoughts or comments are appreciated: 1) The exhaust was blowing from the front manifold when the bike first starts up from cold. This is not around the gasket/flange but actually where the u pipe pushes into the manifold flange. Their were no springs locking the u pipe to the flange or on the other end to the main expan…

Funny how many rare bikes turn up on ebay…! £2000+ for spares / repairs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-RL325-BEAMISH-A-PROPER-BEAMISH-CLASSIC-VINTAGE-TWIN-SHOCK-TRIALS-/141068454925

Hi im looking for some air caps for a 79/80 Beamish 250 As you can see from the pictures, a monkey has been at mine. One has been drilled and rethreaded with a different valve. they dont leak, but i want to get them looking the same. cheers