Bultaco
1,797 topics in this forum
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Hi guy's, New here and I last owned a triles bike (Bultaco) a few years ago now. I'm normally used to building big jap fours so this beasty shouldn't prove to troublesome EXCEPT sourcing parts. Just returned from fetching my new toy. A 1970 sherpa T that hasn't been started for at least 10 years. Bit of a state with a few bits missing but shouldn't take too long to get up and running then test it out before maybe pulling it apart and restoring it properly. First question of probably dozens over the next few weeks..... Where is the best place to obtain parts (new and s/h)? Thanks in advance
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hello all can any body tell me what colour white the 199B is? am just tiding my 199B up shes not to bad it's just the back end needs abit off TLC i don't want to strip the full bike iv'e already strip most off it forks are having a service and paint. i was tempted to take the engine out but i can live with it ill upload some photos off my progress. cheers guys.
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I have owned this 1967 Bultaco Sherpa T for ages, it was the first bike I bought and rode.Originally bought in 1982 for £400, I did some competitions on it then sold it when I was skint.Years later bought it back off the chap I sold it to, he needed the money, but it was in bits in a box then. He had road registered it and had it taxed and running on the road at one point. So it does have a number registration YMO 215F.I did a few more competitions on it, but it needed a restoration even back then. There was no working front brake when I last rode it back in the early 90's.Its sat in the corner of my garage getting dusty since then. So I've now decided to fully restore it…
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Hello everyone. I'm trying to confirm what the first two letters stamped on the crankcase before the hyphen and the numbers should be ?????? One I'm looking at doesn't look right, in as much the whole stamping is slightly wonky and the first two letters look like JM. I already own a 198 and the engine number on that starts RM followed by the numbers which are nice and straight and about 5mm from the clutch housing gasket. The wonky 199B number is about 10mm above the gasket line, and the stamped numbers and letters are not perfectly in line and a bit bigger than the 198. The frame number on the 199B looks good, starting JB and numbers and letters look correct. Nicely…
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hello dose any body know the correct torque for the 199b pinch bolts on the yokes? cheers
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Having trouble with my front brake I just can't get it to work, it has new shoes and a new cable. It looks like the the hub has already been sleeved. What I'm after is the diameter of the standard brake drum so I can check for wear, does anyone know it ?? Thanks in advance for any replies.
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A guy in my garage has a Bultaco that was setup as an ice racer and I am about to pull it out of a pile of bikes to see if I can get it running. I don't know anything about Bultaco's except what I've read about in the last two hours. I looked up the engine serial number but I still don't quite understand what I'm looking at. Engine: M-10600133 (first number has a scratch that made it look like a "4" which really threw me off for a couple hours) Frame: B-680242 3 ? - I can't quite make out the last number/letter I think the serial number is telling me that the engine is a mid-60's M10 Sherpa T. Is that right? I've been reading that M10 should have radial fin heads. …
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Can not find much on why we never got Astros in UK been after one for a while but price rise and sterling pounds got worse against the dollar because of brexit.The Astro and pursang 360 are they same engine.Biggest guestion thoe why no one bought one and put on road as local run around.Been on youtube only seen on race tracks no American seen on road with them.Thanks
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Hi to all, I was wondering whether anyone can advise me please? I'm about to begin restoring my Bultaco M27 and didn't notice that the top clamp on the trees is wrong! I know the rarity of the 27 and the availability of parts is slim. Does anyone know whether the M10 top clamp is the same as the M27 please? If it definitely is then my percentage level of finding one may increase by a small fraction! any help will be greatly appreciated. many thanks Gary.
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I've just refitted the clutch onto my 190 and obviously as a first-time I've tried to follow the manual to the letter. I've adjusted the nuts whilst holding in the clutch and working the kick start and I think I've got the plates nice and true. However this means that the holes in the nuts for the lock wire are all over the place. When I dismantled the clutch they were nicely in line so that the lock wire made a nice loop and I've seen a photo of similar elsewhere on the forum. If I adjust the nuts to make the lock wire look tidy will I not be upsetting the alignment of the plates? Also, how on earth do you manage to torque the flywheel nut to 95 ft/lbs?? I got the clutc…
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Hi,I recently got a 1969 model 49 which i am slowly doing a running restoration. So far i have replaced the crank seals,points and condenser,changed the carb for a Mikuni VM,replaced the wheel bearings and hub seals and fixed a hole in the tank. I road it for first time at a trial on Sunday and what fun i had on it. Over the last month or so i have been reading all i can on this Bultaco section and have found out many new things. I will keep you up to date as my work carries on and may well be calling on your vast store of know haw. regards Paul250
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I visited a bike boneyard to look at two M49s and luckily they were examples of a series 2 and a series 3 bike. This posting has the photos of the series 2 M49 serial number M4902195 and the next posting shows the other bike. What got me motivated to go looking was a post by Woody: "The serial numbers are from Bultaco's own figures so they should be right. However, they only list the model 49 as having one frame change during its production run but there were two. Series 1 with single tube under engine, upright shocks. Series 2, single frame tube under engine, angled shocks with seat unit altered to accomodate relocated top shock mounts. Series 3, twin frame tubes under…
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Hi all, I'm just starting to tear into the engine I got with my #158 Sherpa basket case project. There has obviously been a pretty catastrophic failure at one point, the magneto side is full of corrosion, I guess it was full of water for a long time. The cases where completely void of any oil. The crank didn't turn. When I removed the clutch side cover I found that the nut holding the flywheel on was completely undone and floating around, there was no lock wire on that nut, nor the clutch nuts. The area around the woodruff key on the crank is a bit mangled, but I should be able to clean that up. 1) I have two questions. The primary side seal interfaces with wha…
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Thinking about giving my 199A a face lift over the winter.I,m kicking around going to the 199B color as the A model is just too much blue for me.If I do should I cut the rear frame loop off like the B ? It does look better to me,but I kind of hate to ruin the originality of the A.In my thinking the loop also helps keep a little rigidity back there also.My other color scheme idea is silver frame,red tank and side panels with white fenders. Any opinions are welcome. Cheers, Scott
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I refurbished my Sherpa over the winter. No changes to the engine which started well and ran ok before and after initially the full nut and bolt refurb. I’ve not had chance to use due to lockdown, but recently struggled starting her. She fired but died and when eventually she ran I found she was running backwards which I know they can do sometimes. I’ve check all the fuel side out (new fuel as well) and reset points and timing, setting to 2.6mm BTDC (as advised by InMotion) with dial gauge etc. to the Bultaco method (which it was before). Spark is good etc. But starting remains a real problem and on the one occasion she did run, it was backwards! I’m a bit of a loss as no…
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I've made my beat up old 199A my only Trials bike and I'm enjoying riding it. I've had it for years but only ridden, and worked on it occasionally. I'm drawn to the Bultaco because I raced on them when in my prime. I don't want to make it into a modern bike but I think with some upgrades and riding it regularly I can make it work pretty well. Old age and decrepitude have relegated me to a lower class in club Trials and I find a vintage bike makes that move more palatable. I'm considering a couple of changes and would like to hear comments and advice. First, my airbox and side panels are hanging on by a thread. I think I recall seeing 199s with older airboxes a…
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